What a trip. Amazing friends made and beautiful sights seen. ‘Til next time.
August 24 – Aran Islands
Day 9 of our tour was truly the icing on the cake. We boarded the Queen of Aran at the Doolin pier into the North Atlantic for a short ride across to Inisheer, the smallest of Aran Islands. Upon arrival Willy, Clay, Chris and I rented bikes to explore the island. We traveled the streets amongst the labyrinth of rock walls to reach the circa 1960s era shipwreck of the Plassey. After a few bike malfunctions including breaking a chain, we headed up to the highest point on the island, the ruins of O’Brien Castle where I even ran into some fine St. Louis folks. On our decent we stopped by Saint Caomhan’s church, also known as Sunken Church which has been buried in sand. St. Caomhan’s grave is also on site. Finally, with an hour left on the island, we decided to head cross island to the lighthouse. It was a wonderful ride, but boy am I out of shape. We once again boarded the Queen of Aran for our return, but the captain took us by way of the Cliffs of Moher for a spectacular view of these majestic cliffs from an angle that many people don’t get. What a wonderful way to spend a sunny Irish day. We finished the night with a group dinner, a set and some education from a fabulous young artist, Tara Howley, some farewells and a few songs from Willy at Fitzpatrick’s before heading back to pack before our departures tomorrow. What a tour, with fun, humor and great new friendships. I’m off to Dublin for a couple of days on my own and will be meeting up with a couple of my new friends (Jerry & Liz) while I am there.
August 23 – Cliffs of Moher
It is hard to believe but today was day 8 of our journey and we have 1 full day left. We woke up in our home base of Doolin and headed off to the Cliffs of Moher. These stunning cliffs showcase the beauty of western Ireland and the North Atlantic. After the cliffs we set out on a journey to explore the Burren. On our way to Caherconnell, we stopped by Leamaneh Castle. After lunch at Caherconnell we had a sheepdog demonstration which exemplifies something that is very important in the Irish rural culture. There is a 6th century stone fort to explore as well. Amazing. From there we visited Poulnabrone Portal Tomb dating back to the Neolithic period, probably between 4200 BC and 2900 BC. One final stop in the Burren at the otherworldly beach of Ballyvaughan. The night winds up back in Doolin at McGann’s for a set from world renowned uilleann piper Blackie O’Connell and his cohort on bouzouki, Cyril O’Donohue. Wow!
August 22 – On the move to Doolin
Day 7, we were on the move from Ballyferriter to Doolin and with the move came a beautiful day. We hit the road and made two quick stops at the South Pole Inn and the picturesque city square of Listowel before crossing the Shannon Estuary aboard the Shannon Breeze. Lunch was in the Irish surfing capital of Lahinch with a visit to Kenny’s Pub for a pint before the last leg of the drive up to Doolin. Along the route we stopped by St. Bridget’s Well for some redemption. Dinner was at Fitzpatrick’s, but really, it was all about the concert. Tonight we had the exceptional pleasure to have a private show with Luka Bloom. To say it was unbelievable is an understatement. It is surely the highlight of the trip for me.
August 21 – Exploring Dingle Town
Day 6 of our Ireland trip was a quiet day. Left to our own plans for most of the day giving time for everyone to recharge before wrapping up our trip in Doolin. I hopped on the shuttle with a few of my new friends into Dingle for a soaking walk through town visiting a few shops along the way. After a thorough soaking I met up with Clay for a pint at Foxy John’s Bar, Hardware and Bicycles. After drying off, the group met at O’Sullivan’s Court House Pub for a rousing set from Tommy O’Sullivan and some guest artists including Willy. We finished the night with a group meal back in Ballyferriter and a short set by Willy. On to Doolin tomorrow!
August 20 – Dingle Peninsula
We’ve passed the halfway point on our trip on Day 5. Today we were able to visit a batch of historic sites dating from the 6th-12th centuries (Reask Monastic Site, Kilmalkedar, Gallarus Oratory and ring forts) with a fantastic guide in Billy. From there, we headed up to Slea Head where Jason was nearly blown off the cliff and Clay (aka. Jim Cantore) gave us a report on the weather. We finished our tour of the Dingle Peninsula with a visit to the Blasket Islands Centre to learn a bit about the islands. We finished the day with dinner in Dingle town followed by a concert at Siopa Ceoil featuring the rambunctious Seamus Begley. Now, off for a pint.
August 19 – On the move to Dingle
On day 4 of our journey through Ireland we moved our base from Skibbereen to Ballyferriter on the Dingle (yes, almost every joke has already been heard on the bus) Peninsula. Along the way we visited Molly Gallivan’s farm which is the only original traditional Irish settlement house and farm still in its original form. We sampled some of the poitin (traditional homemade whisky) while learning a bit about life on the farm. We then hopped the bus into Kenmare for lunch where we were enthralled by the incredible race walking coverage in the Olympics 😉. From there we headed through Killarney and into Ballyferriter with a quick stop at Inch Beach for some provisions and to catch a view of some kitesurfers (and a compact car disappearing into the surf poor souls). After a bite at the hotel bar we were treated to an incredible private concert by Gerry O’Beirne & Pauline Scanlon. Phew! Tomorrow we hit the halfway mark. Glass half full. Slainte!
August 18 – Mizen Head
Today’s journey took us to the most southwestern point in Ireland, Maizen Head. A beautiful view of the Atlantic, the cliffs and of seals playing in the surf was provided to our group. We then headed to Crookhaven for some lunch (and the odd pint) in the village amongst locals swimming, boating and enjoying the sea. We then took a walk along Barleycove Beach some of the crew enjoyed the “refreshing” surf. After dinner with my friend Chris, the group traveled to Levis in Ballydehob for one of the most fun musical experiences I have been at. Willy joined in with a local group of musicians as well as the talented members of our group in this tiny pub. Wow! What a day.
August 17 – Skibbereen
Another fine day in Ireland with clear skies and fantastic weather. We started off with an in depth and moving history of the Irish potato famine at the Skibbereen Heritage Center. Afterwards, we visited the mass graves from the famine at Abbeystrowry and to say that was moving is an understatement. From there we visited the ancient Dromberg Stone Circle to learn about the ruins. To finish off the afternoon we visited the picturesque city of Glandore for lunch in what felt and looked like the Mediterranean. After a nice break a few of headed to the Church Restaurant before heading to the hotel pub for some Irish music and dance lessons. What a day!
August 16 – Bunratty to Skibbereen
What a start to my visit to Ireland. Arrived on Monday morning and started that afternoon off with a nice walk and visit to Bunratty castle before Irish coffee in a B & B courtyard with the owner’s grandkids playing music for our group. Then some great seafood dinner and a pint in Bunratty. Today got to visit Adare before lunch in Kinsale. Then over to Skibbereen for a group dinner with Willy singing for his supper before a private concert with local singer songwriter John Spillane. Punctuated, of course, with cider, whiskey, and some stout.